Thursday, June 12, 2008

Protecting and Staining Ipe, Mahogany, and Ironwood Deck or Porch Floor

We have tested numerous coatings over the years, and all have certain advantages and disadvantages to specific jobs. All the deck coatings we feature at PaintSource.net are the best we have found in various product categories.

Exotic hardwood has always been a challenge. OneTIME is our product of choice for exotic hardwood. It does bring out the natural beauty of the wood like an oil, darkening and enhancing. One TIME addresses and overcomes almost every disadvantage and performance shortcomings of traditional oils, new acrylics, and other products (drying issues, film-building, lap-marks, peeling, short-life, poor appearance). One Time cures in the sunlight and becomes part of the wood structure. There is no film building even with repeat applications. There are no lap marks, and there is no solvent hazard. It is environmentally friendly for use around water, and does not require harsh chemicals or strippers for later maintenance (also a plus around water). One TIME uses transoxide pigments which are premium UV blockers, but also very translucent and natural looking.

A huge advantage of One TIME Wood Protector is the ease of application, and lack of lap marking. Backside and end grain can be sealed prior to construction, and any bleed or runover to the front side blends in when we coat the topside after construction. It is very critical that low to ground decking, and porch flooring be backside sealed prior to installation. You still want to minimize run-over, but most products are very tedious and difficult to precoat with when trying to coat the back without getting coating on the board face. OneTime is very forgiving of frontside overrun.

Below is is a client's deck finished with One TIME Golden Honey on Garapa Gold:


On new exotic hardwood, like Mahogany, Cumaru, Ipe, etc., I like to see the wood dry and weather 2-3 months to lose a little of the surface oils, and draw in the sealer. Acetone wipe can be used for quicker application, but weathering a little is always best. After weathering, we consider preparing the wood with an oxalic acid brightener. If wood is coated quickly when new, we may see a little shorter life on the first application if we are unable to deliver enough product into the surface. I like clients to understand the nature of hardwood. We normally get about 250-300 sq ft / gal on most wood, but we see more like 400 sq ft / gal on hardwood, so obviously we are getting about half the amount of product on the surface of the hardwood. We sometimes see greater longevity of the color after the second application in a couple of years, after the wood is a little seasoned. While One TME can protect most softer wood like treated pine for a few years, color rejuvenation on hardwood could be desired for cosmetics after a couple of summers, and even when pigment is faded, the OneTIME resin is still protecting the wood from moisture and fungal attachment.

Bottom line, few products we have tested go beyond 1 year on hardwood, and many last less than a year. Many other products (especially oils) have drying and buildup issues after 1 or 2 maintenance coats. OneTime never builds to a point of needing strippers or harsh chemistry. You will get a couple of great years with One TIME in the darker colors on Ipe, Mahogany, and other exotic Hardwood. Simply clean and reapply when color refreshing is desired, and certainly by the 3d -4th year. Just use the color fade as a gauge for rejuvenation. Maintenance and touchup is very easy with this product. The only limitation of the OneTIME is that it does require UV to cure, so completely covered areas more than 10 feet deep undercover may experience drying issues, so test a small sample board in any deeply covered area that gets no sunlight.

See Colors on Wood
OneTIME on Hardwood video discussion.
Scott Talks about One TIME. video discussion.

One other option (if a more finished look is desired) on Hardwood Decking or Porches, is to use 1- 2 coats Waterlox Marine Sealer , and two coats of Waterlox Marrine Satin Finish, with expected maintenance at 18-24 months on fully exposed wood . You can add a conventional oil stain at up to a 1 to 4 ratio in the first couple of coats for added UV resistance and color enhancement. This is an elegant finished look that we have experienced excellent results with as well.

All the best until the next.

Doug

4 comments:

James said...

I recently had a screened in porch put on my house. The porch has a mahogany floor and mahogany screen frames and cedar ceiling. The porch gets a lot of sun. I used a clear Sherwin Williams sealer but I have noticed some bleaching from the sun on the exterior and the floor. What should I do to bring back and protect the natural beauty of the mahogany and cedar?

PaintSource said...

Most clear sealers typically give the dissapointing results you describe. The best option is to strip the Sherwin Williams Deck Sealer with a sodium hydroxide based deck stripper, then follow with an oxalic acid brightener.

A good sealer choice would be the One TIME Wood Protector for a natural looking finish. You need some pigment for UV filtering. One TIME uses trans-oxide pigments, which give the highest UV filtering , yet are very translucent. Maintenance would be easy detergent wash, and rejuvenation every couple of years.

http://onetimewood.blogspot.com/

lou said...

I have a mahogany front porch floor. for the first few years we used a reccomended perifin by paint store. Now I have a lot of stracth marks in high traffic area. what do i do? Can I sand the floor? should I? or just the marked areas? Please help my front porch is my pride and joy and now it looks terrible
thanks
Lou d.

PaintSource said...

You need to strip any previous failed product from the wood to use the One TIME. The One TIME is a great product for long lasting easy maintenance deck care.

You can use any good deck stripper (usually sodium hydroxide based). Some Acrylic deck products are more difficult to strip, and can sometimes create the need for sanding.

You must soften or loosen the stain with a deck stripper. There are several effective strippers to choose from, depending on whether the stain was oil based or water based. The waterbased will be pretty stubborn, and will require some scrubbing as well. Once the stain is softened or loosened, it can be efficiently rinsed with a pressure washer. Follow with a wood brightener to neutralize. Below is a bit more info on deck stripping.

It is actually easier to strip on an overcast day so the stripper does not dry out, as the stripper works best the longer it can lay wet on the surface.

After stripping, certainly consider One Time wood Protector for your project.

I want to emphasize again that even though a previous sealer may have worn away and appear to be gone, it is important to use a chemical deck stripper to remove all traces of a previous product. As we discussed, aggressive sanding may do the trick, but I could not tell you for sure on any particular project.

Many stain strippers are similar in chemical make-up. This is not like furniture stripper. It is a water rinsable product applied by garden sprayer and scrubbed a little. Below is some information to consider. The stripper and brightener we feature are premium products, but they are fairly common chemistry that may be available to you locally. You will want to acquire a sample of the stripper and brightener you choose and test an area. (consider Cabots Stripper and Brightener, or Flood Stripper followed by a brightener (oxalic acid). Below is information on the brand we carry.

DEFY Stain Stripper could be used where a previous sealer was used on the wood.

Most stain stripper will cover 100-150 square feet per gallon. Lightly dampen surfaces to be stripped to avoid excessive grain raising. Apply a generous and uniform coat of stain stripper with a polyester brush, roller or pump-up hand sprayer. Allow Stripper to remain wet on surface for 15-20 minutes (keep re-applying Stripper so area does not dry out). Make sure to allow enough time for product to work. When the finish begins to lift from the wood’s surface, scrub it with a stiff bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain. After scrubbing, rinse with large amounts of water in the direction of the wood grain. If stubborn areas remain, repeat the application in those areas.
After rinsing you should neutralize and brighten the wood with Wood Brightener.

If wood is fuzzed after stripping , consider Dust-Free Deck Sanding

Allow wood to dry 2-3 days before applying the finish.

Other possible strippers to consider:

Bio-Wash Stripex (800) 858-5011;
Cabot Problem-Solver Wood Stripper;
Coronado Maxum-Prep Deck & Wood Stripper, (800) 883-4193;
Flood Company Power Lift One Step Stripper, (800) 321-3444;
Every stripper manufacturer also makes a deck brightener. After brightening, wait until the deck is perfectly dry (usually 3 days) before staining. Look for oxalic acid on the Brightener ingredients.